Center of Attention (for today anyway)

Journalists, celebrities, government dignitaries, and young professionals who think they’re helping to ‘Save the World’. That’s the people I’m seeing and hearing about being around Juba for the momentous occasion of the South Sudan referendum. In case you’re wondering which category I fall into, it’d be the celebrities – you may remember me from the movie Cast Away with my grizzly beard, or years ago when I was getting mistaken for Chuck Norris and Jesus. Although I am clean shaven and could pass through most circles without being noticed.

Having come to South Sudan first in early 2007 and made my first trip to Juba in March of that year, there are so many changes that I see around me. And to think that those who’d been here even just a year or two earlier have seen and witnessed pretty much double the differences that have occurred in the past 4 years. There are people returning who’d been around before, I’m not the only one who couldn’t stay away. But there are definitely a lot of newcomers who are interested in something the world is taking interest in. The struggles and difficulties that this area has undergone since the colonial days normally take up about a paragraph in an article. Most people don’t know more than just the things like the scary statistics I posted just below or the fact that South Sudan has had nearly five decades of mostly conflict prior to the signing of the CPA in 2005. Isn’t Sudan the country where Darfur is also a common reaction when people hear about Sudan. You may know a few other sound bites here and there which are repeated in the media or books.

I’ve come back to try to help improve things, though really that might be happening in spite of my efforts and energies rather than because of them. In two years I didn’t get to know the language, the people, the culture. Yet, I and others know the potential for disaster from the stories we have heard and from the way individuals share their experiences from the decades of conflict. I eagerly await to mark the beginning of a new era. I trust God will teach me, will work through me, and will bring about positive growth on the micro-level regardless of what happens in the macro.

Scary Statistics

Scary Statistics – Southern Sudan[1]
September 2010

Poverty
· 50.6% of the population live on less than 2.5 SDG a day. Poverty is highest in Northern Bahr-el-Ghazal state with 75.6% of the population living below the poverty line.[2]
· 4.3 million vulnerable people will require food assistance in 2010. Of this number, 1.5 million will face severe food insecurity.[3]

Maternal Mortality
· One out of seven women who become pregnant will probably die from pregnancy-related causes.[4]
· 40.6% of mothers do not receive antenatal care at all.[5]
· Only 10.2% of deliveries are attended by skilled birth attendants.
· There are only 13.6% institutional (hospital) deliveries.[6]
· Contraceptive prevalence is only 3.5%.
· There are only an estimated 100 certified midwives.[7]

Child Mortality
· Although the infant mortality rate has decreased, it still stands at 102 per 1,000 live births.
· While the under-five mortality rate has decreased, one out of every 7 children will die before their fifth birthday (135 per 1,000 live births).

Immunisation
· Southern Sudan has one of the lowest routine immunisation coverage rates in the world.
· Only about 10% of children are fully vaccinated.[8]
· Only 28% of children receive measles vaccination before their first birthday.

Malaria
· Malaria is considered hyper-endemic in Southern Sudan, accounting for more than 40% of all health facility visits and 80% of household do not have treated bed nets.[9]

HIV/AIDS
· HIV awareness stands at 45.1%, however only 8% have knowledge about HIV prevention.
· More than 70% of women aged 15-49 have no knowledge about HIV prevention.

Water and Sanitation
· More than 50% of the population do not have access to improved drinking water.
· Only 6.4% of the population have access to improved sanitation facilities.

Primary Education
· Less than 50% of all children receive 5 years of primary school education.
· While 1.3 million children are enrolled, only 1.9% complete primary school education.
· For every 1,000 primary school students there is only one teacher.[10]
· 85% of adults do not know how to read or write.[11]

Gender
· 92% of women cannot read or write.[12]
· Only 27% of girls are attending primary school.[13]
· A 15 year-old girl has a higher chance of dying in childbirth than completing school.

Displacement
Since the beginning of 2010, an estimated 190,000 people have been displaced by inter-ethnic and armed conflicts in Southern Sudan. In 2009, the figure was 391,000 - more than double the number for 2008 which stood at 187,000.[14]

[1] All data unless referenced are from the Sudan Household Survey 2006 t0 2010.
[2] SSCCSE 2010
[3] ANLA Report 2010.
[4] Based on reporting from WHO 2010
[5] WHO Report 2010
[6] WHO Report 2010
[7] MOH Survey 2009
[8] WHO Report 2010
[9] South Sudan MDG Report 2005, UNDP 2006
[10] UNESCO 2009
[11] Alternative Education Systems Unit in the Ministry of Education, UNESCO 2008
[12] Ibid
[13] SSCSE
[14] OCHA EP&R 2010

This is what the anticipated new country of South Sudan is going to have to deal with while also building a nation. Not exactly what you would expect from a country in the year 2011. The challenge of the referendum is only the beginning.

Where?!?!

Well, I suppose I’m overdue for an update considering it has been more than 3 months since my last one. Jeff is where you ask? Well, I left Somaliland in early October, spent three weeks in the USA, and arrived back in South Sudan at the beginning of November after over a year and a half away. I now live in Juba with frequent travel to the field sites.

I couldn’t resist the temptation to come back to Sudan to mark an historical moment as the South votes in a referendum of self-determination to decide whether to split off from the North and form their own independent nation. It has been 6 years since the CPA and relative peace came to the South. There were plenty of reasons to doubt whether it would happen, but the first day of voting is now here, and things would seem to indicate that this vote will go off pretty peacefully.

South Sudan Oiyay!

R E S P E C T

So as soon as I typed the title to this post, I decided I had to listen to a little Aretha Franklin. It had been quite a while until now that I've listened to this song, and all of a sudden I wish I had some more soul music on my iTunes. Guess I'll have to work on that.

But, that is not what this post is about. There are a couple of articles out in the news that I'm sure will go largely unnoticed in the West. Last week I saw on CNN International TV an episode of the show 'Prism' which was talking about the fighting in Mogadishu and how it has intensified between the TFG (UN backed government in Southern Somalia which controls a few blocks of the city including the presidential palace, the airport, very little else, and very little outside of town) and Al Shabaab (terrorist group linked to and supported by Al Qaeda in control of a large chunk of the rest of the South of Somalia). The African Union troops in Mogadishu continue to battle insurgents daily, with people being killed all the time.

Meanwhile, up in the north in a region (or separate country depending on who you ask) called Somaliland where I am, things function. There are police. There is a military. But there is also an elected president and a two house legislature. There are storied buildings and pipe-born water. Electricity reaches many houses in the city in which I live, and it is all run by private businesses. Construction is booming rather than places being destroyed by mortars and heavy artillery fire.

I posted at the end of June/early July about elections which took place in Somaliland. The challenger beat the incumbent, and the loser stepped down recognizing the vote and giving up power. Little has been said about this. Little attention is given to the fact that while so much international attention is given to the Somali 'problem' with all the fighting and killing that continues to take place, there is a part of what the world knows as 'Somalia' that is developing mostly on its own. In fact, I wonder if there were more international attention if it would continue to develop, or if the special interests of the outside would cause chaos and confusion pitting people against one another for what they can profit instead of what profits the people.

We just may be able to see if that is the case, or if this region could actually be used as a place to bring development and inspire the South to change. There are a couple of articles you can read about the US being about to start ties with Somaliland. Until now, the North and South have been considered as one, and only the government in the South was recognized (even though it has power over just a tiny pocket of the entire country). The articles on BBC News and Voice of America News both talk of the problems in Somalia, but show that maybe the world is beginning to give some of that R-E-S-P-C-E-C-T that the people here have struggled to earn. It surely hasn't come easily as people were caught up in fighting back in the years before and after the infamous 'Blackhawk Down' episode. There has been civil war and Somaliland is still surrounded by areas of instability both in Somalia and neighboring Ethiopia with Eritrea not too far away. However, peace prevails and progress is happening. I hope that the investment of the US and other countries helps progress to increase and doesn't just complicate things and add too many interests to this small beacon of hope. Even though I will be leaving in a couple of weeks, I will continue to follow what happens in Somaliland.

Play Ball

FIBA. I don’t know what it stands for, but it was the international basketball championship which ended over the weekend in Turkey. It seems that Europeans and Africans don’t really care about basketball. But, I got to catch some of the final game in which the USA beat Turkey for the gold medal. I don’t think it really made much news as there were very few American NBA stars playing. And, in spite of that, the US led by Kevin Durant won it all. In a similar development, American football season has begun. Working with only Europeans and in Africa, my colleagues would not be aware of the fact above were I to make sure to spread the message. The Eagles disappointed in an opening game loss to the Packers, but I was excited nonetheless as I got to watch ESPN Sportscenter for the first time in quite a while and see the highlights.

The Olympics and the World Cup are universally known. Cricket and rugby have followers crossing continental divides. The biggest sports in the US, however, are relatively new in the world market. While the DR, Cuba, and Venezuela have been big with baseball for some time, it’s only recently made its way to Japan where it has become popular. American football has sprung up in leagues in Europe, but is not followed by many. Basketball leagues have begun recently in a lot of countries in Europe and Asia, but also are thin on supporters and fans though gaining ground.

The US can compete with the best countries in any sport really. There are professional leagues and competitions for just about everything, but ice hockey, tennis, and golf are probably the only ones with big followings outside the US in which competitors make millions (not really going to count the MLS as it is a relative newcomer in the US). And these three have nothing of the control on television broadcasting and merchandising deals that the MLB, NFL, and NBA control.

I don’t know where I’m going with this, but just think it is interesting that as an American, I find little common ground with others internationally on the sports that I grew up with. It isn’t just that we like boring sports in the US. NASCAR may be the exception as far as the rest of the world is concerned, though I don’t think Indy car racing (with worldwide popularity) is all that different. NASCAR usually only has four different turns that drivers go through over and over and over again over 3 hours of driving while Indy Car drivers at least have road courses that mix things up a little more. One cricket match can last days. It is not exciting. And yet, it is probably the 2^nd most popular sport in the world behind football (soccer).

ESPN has no equal in the US. It is by far the most popular channel in the US among men. It is one of the things that I miss about living overseas. We do get an international version of ESPN, but it is not nearly as good as the US version. However, none of those from outside the US understand what I’m talking about (except maybe Canadians). And while ESPN is not something I’ll really be able to pass on to others, at least I can try to build up support for baseball, football, and basketball, and eventually the US will be able to spread its sports influence throughout the entire world. Maybe ESPN will be able to be universally recognized in the next 5 or 10 years. Then maybe I’ll be able to watch Sportscenter or NFL, MLB, or NBA games at convenient times and not just replays during odd hours in the time zones I find myself in. Until then, March Madness, playoff races and Top Ten plays of the Day will be things I just have to continue to live without.

Unfitting Title

Unbelievable!! (I wish it were unbelievable – in actuality, we’ve all interacted with people enough to know that there really are too many idiots out there who will do anything for attention or money or some deluded idea of righteousness.)

It has been in the news for quite a while, but now the time is nearly here. Some ‘pastor’ (he definitely doesn’t deserve that title) in Florida is going to burn Qurans on September 11. Thankfully, I’ve forgotten his name right now. I wish when this was over his would be a name that goes by unrecognized, because this must be more a publicity stunt than anything else. He’s either trying to get rich off of this, or just the attention is enough for him. Therefore, I request anyone who reads this to please not purchase any of his books, don’t go to his website, don’t watch videos on youtube or anything else related to this foolish man and those connected to him.

This embarrassment to the Church and to pastors is so shameful. There is no good reason at all for such an action to be taking place. It is completely opposite what the Bible teaches, what Jesus taught, and what Churches should be doing. Antagonizing and polarizing things such as this should be disregarded and ignored and are not worth even the attention of a blog post. I only write this to try to put in perspective how foolish it is, and talk about the correct responses and what we might learn from the reactions to it.

On Easter, how would Christians feel if someone (who claims to be a Muslim cleric) were to burn Bibles or crosses and try to make a big deal out of it? What would you think if you heard about a Nazi destroying yarmulkes or menorahs on a day to commemorate the Holocaust? How about people wearing KKK hoods and parading around with nooses on Martin Luther King Jr Day?

Saturday will be a part of the Eid celebration to mark the end of the Muslim Holy month of Ramadan. It is the equivalent to Christmas or Easter in Christianity. And there is a ‘pastor’ who is going to burn Qurans. How disrespectful and divisive. A similar type of action would be for this guy in Florida and people like him to rape the wives and daughters of Muslims. That would similarly be very much unchristian and offensive, but I’m sure would have a result that would actually affect him more, so he is scared to do it. He values his life, just no one else’s.

Most Muslims know that this guy does not represent Christianity and that this action is not typical of a follower of Christ. However, there will surely be those who try to use this as further fodder to attack the perils of the ‘Christian Western World.’ Just as you would (should) want to confront anyone who would support someone burning Bibles on Easter, wearing KKK hoods on Martin Luther King day, or destroying Stars of David at a Holocaust Memorial, you should want to confront anyone who would burn Qurans on Eid. You would want to confront it anytime, but during times which are dedicated or sacred, it becomes even more of an emotionally charged climate. We all know how crowds can easily be incited and people do things as a group they would never do alone.

It is my prayer that Muslims teach Christians a few things about forgiveness and show the world the Osama bin Laden’s of their ranks have little standing. I wish that Christians could stop this fool from shaming himself and others by burning Qurans. If it happens, though, take note of how the world responds. Most are condemning it already, and even though you may hear of a few isolated incidents in response that are similarly hateful and foolish, recognize that such a response is no different than the action itself, and is representative of a minority of Muslims. Just as most Christians would not want to be associated with this idiot, don’t associate all Muslims with those who may retaliate. And, if you don’t hear anything about any retaliation, consider what you would have done or expected to be the result of the other examples already mentioned. And know that people all over the world have sin. Don’t put people of your own religion on any pedestal while thinking that people of another are anywhere lower. People are people. Sin exists in every nook and cranny of the world. We all need to experience the grace of God and for God to reveal himself. I hope this ‘pastor’ in Florida someday realizes this as well.

One last thing: For those of you who may be Christian, please apologize for this on behalf of all Christians to any Muslims you may know. Ask their forgiveness for such a thing done in the name of Church and tell them it doesn't represent you or most others within the Church. Love them, respect them, and tell them this. If you don't know any followers of Islam, find the nearest place where they may be a mosque and write an apology letter. I hope it can be clear just how far this is from the message of Christ.

Ponderings of an Itinerant Aid Worker

So I’m nearing the end of a year in Somaliland. Within the next two months I’ll be moving on to greener pastures (most likely – there are definitely some, but not too many places which will be drier than where I’ve been the last year, and I don’t plan to go to any of them). It has been nice to see this year be much wetter than most here, and the camels, goats, and sheep appear much healthier than when I first came, but it is definitely still very dry and brown around. The capital of Somaliland, Hargeisa, seems to be getting quite a lot of rain, but we’ve missed out on most of it here in the East.

As I’ve recently informed our staff of my planned departure, and the earlier end times during Ramadan leave long afternoons / evenings in the house, I’ve become contemplative. Over the past four years I’ve lived in the jungle of Liberia, a couple places in South Sudan, and in Northern Somalia. I’ve seen communities embrace projects that provide opportunities and give hope. Others have rejected similar endeavours and the greediness and ignorance of a few has spoiled the chance for their friends and neighbours. Some leaders and community elders have struggled to improve things for the next generations, while other officials have sought only their own interests and divert funds and resources intended for the common good to their own pockets. Along with the challenges have been many rewarding experiences and motivation has come when needed in so many different ways.

I’ve worked with quite a few different teams of national and international staff. I’ve had fun picking on Canadians and their sparsely populated tundra of a home and been confused as to how Europeans of different countries can live so close to one another and yet have so many cultural differences. The same can be said for Africa and the different tribes that are contained even within the same country borders. I’ve witnessed and had to fire staff who have stolen from each of the projects I’ve worked in and who in spite of their relatively well-paying jobs take what was intended for the poorest and neediest in communities. While this is sometimes the hardest thing to deal with of all, the most rewarding experiences I’ve been able to have are positive relationships with staff that I’ve seen grow and develop. There have been a few staff in each location who I’ve been able to work with and help mentor and coach that I know are helping and will continue to provide hope and support to their communities. Seeing those who are committed to improving their own lives, the lives of their families and of their people surpasses any physical benefit of the projects I’ve been a part of. Having access to markets through a new bridge being built, those who are malnourished receiving food that will help them survive, or the construction of lasting buildings that will be used for good in communities is great, but it’s not enough. Without the relationships that have been built with incredible individuals and seeing the development and commitment of these all-stars, there’s no way I’d still be doing this.

As I wrap things up here and prepare to hand over to my successor, I am beginning to look ahead. With the opportunities that I’ve had, the things I’ve been able to do, see, and be a part of, I am spoiled for life. I don’t know how I could go back to a ‘normal’ job in the States or some cosmopolitan city. How long could I last in an office or doing something where all the answers to the problems I might face will be found in a book or the internet? Of course I know that it is possible to do exciting things elsewhere. And all over the world are people in desperate or difficult situations who can benefit from someone walking alongside them through life. Even in offices, workshops, sports teams, clubs and any other type of environment I know inspiring and rewarding things happen. People are given hope, thrive and develop when supported, and lives change. Wherever one may find him/herself, life is life and people are people the world over. But I may have gone and ruined any chance I had at living a ‘normal’ life somewhere where things work. I was chatting (Skype is great!) with a friend working in Afghanistan yesterday, venting some anger after I’d spent way too much time and energy dealing with various levels of bureaucracy and self-interested officials on a couple different issues. After briefing him on the situation, his reply summed up so much about this business: ‘Yeah, but if the job were easy, would we like it so much?’ The work is a challenge, and that makes it fun (once the frustration passes). It is disappointing and depressing at times, but that is also why the rewarding moments are so inspiring and invigorating. How can I ever do anything else?

Ramadan

This is the time of Ramadan. It started 2 weeks ago now, and I missed most of the first two weeks of it as I was away from the office. During Ramadan, Muslims fast during the daylight hours for a complete lunar cycle. It will continue until around September 9 (depending on when the next new moon is, the exact day of which cannot be known until it is actually seen). Fasting for a Muslim is not just fasting from food, but it is a fast from food, drink, cigarettes, sex, and they are not even to swallow their saliva. So, during the day for the next two weeks, our staff will be working without the strength and energy provided by food and water. The dates change a little each year, so it would be really tough/easier in the extreme latitudes during a summer/winter solstice. Imagine it occurring during late June in a place like Anchorage where they’ve only got an hour or two of night. But, were it to fall in December, you wouldn’t even have to miss a normal meal. For those who are sick, for children, and for others who have valid reason, they are not to fast. But, for the healthy, it is a sign of devotion that should be taken seriously.

The schedule during Ramadan changes. People will wake up before dawn, and eat a full meal at around 4:30am. This way they have enough strength to work throughout the day before eating again after sunset. Of course by late in the day the body is tired and energy levels drop. The first few days are usually the roughest, so I’m glad I missed out on it. To compensate for this, our and many other offices have adjusted work schedules. We begin work now at 6:30am. It is quite early for me, and it is taking some getting used to, but our staff have not been having trouble showing up on time. Most of them definitely prefer the earlier start as it allows them to sleep or rest most of the afternoon. We’ve got some busy days ahead which will involve a lot of heavy supplies being loaded and offloaded at various locations, and those who will be labouring in the sun and heat will be doing so without the benefit of a drink of water. 8 hours of lifting and moving around 100 pound sacks would be no fun in any condition, and especially during Ramadan I don’t envy those who will be labouring for us. They’re planning to start at 5am so they can be done as early in the day as possible. So, for the next couple of weeks, this will be something which affects the daily life of all of us who are living and working in the Muslim dominated world.

More Job Hunters

Today I sifted through 48 applications as we are looking to hire a new cashier. Yet again, there were quite a few resumes that brought either a chuckle or provided laugh-out-loud humour. There were one or two more people who said they are combatant who probably wish I thought they were competent (reference to post of a couple months ago). A few applicants have skills in treasure, which would no doubt make it easy for them as a cashier to replace whatever cash loss there may be from errors in bookkeeping. Though I don’t really remember some other funny typos, as they all began to run together, the very first line of the very first resume I opened set the tone, and seemed hilarious as I hadn’t grown tired and bored of the process yet. After the To: and Subject: lines, the first line of the cover letter reads:
Irreverence to your advertising concerning a vacant …

Although the candidate didn’t have the qualifications to be shortlisted and participate in the exam or interview stages, I did consider calling him to the office just to see if I’d want to hire him anyway. I might rather like someone farting, burping, being coarse or carrying out any number of other irreverent behaviors to spice things up in the office. Currently Mr. Been is our most irreverent staff member, and I must admit that his stories and general demeanor actually provide us with good dinner conversations and bring us some laughter quite regularly. He's probably the Somali equivalent of a dirty old man. His inappropriateness isn’t over the line, though, but is actually a little bit of what I’d expect from the Mr. Bean most of you are familiar with.

That’s just a little story from today, and I hope the other pictures also give you something to stimulate the visual side of your brain.

Some pics of the sand blowing across the road the other day

There is a truck coming if you look close enough in the above - maybe a hundred metres in front of the vehicle, and barely visible

This will serve as a waterpoint for the community. It fills in the rainy season, and then they use for months on end when it is dry. Chlorine tablets are provided at the household level to treat the water as you can imagine that sitting in a concrete hole for months on end breeds all kinds of nastiness.

Another 1000

A few more pics for you to enjoy.

It is currently the windy season in Burao. People had talked about the wind coming a month or so ago, but I didn't realize what it was really like. Last week and the week before were quite windy, but not so bad. We just kept the windows closed so that things didn't get too dusty, and the weather was still warm, so the wind didn't bother me too much. The last three days, however, I have began to discover what it can really mean to be windy. The office floor was cleaned on Saturday. On Sunday morning, we left the central door open as we always do. Within a couple of hours, there wasn't a bit of the tile floor that didn't have sand on it. The door has been shut since then, the floor cleaned again, and still the sand has managed to make it's way (not as badly, but still visibly) throughout the entire hallway. In the room where the TV is, there's a cord that we bring in through the window in order to plug into the DSTV box that attaches to the satellite dish. The cable is maybe 8mm in diameter. In spite of this tiny gap that leaves the window open, the TV screen, seats, floor, carpet, and everything else in the room gets covered in a layer of sand each day. When walking between the office and the house, the sandblasting cleans me enough that I don't think I need to shower the rest of windy season. Our health manager said today that when she tilts her head to the side after walking between the house and office, sand pours out like an hourglass. I don't know how much longer the wind will be this serious, but the windy season lasts several more weeks. I hope that it goes back to just a constant heavy wind instead of these crazy constant sandstorm winds.

I write about the wind as I have above, but I live in a cement block house. A little sand on dishes, furniture, and the floor is a little annoying, but not bad at all. Most people around here, however, live in makeshift shelters that are made of sticks and covered in fabric, old tin cans cut up and flattened, and cardboard. What is a minor annoyance to me that I'm experiencing for the first time is something that the people who live around me have put up with on a much more severe level for weeks every year their entire lives. I doubt their clothes will be sand free for quite some time. The food they have, where they sleep, everything for them is nowhere near as protected as me and my things are.

In spite of some minor inconveniences, I am very thankful to God for what he has allowed and continues to allow me to experience. We each have perspectives that no one else has on life, and God uses those to shape us and mold us into what he wants us to be and do. Don't feel sorry for me, don't feel sorry for my neighbors whose lives are more greatly affected by the sand that covers everything. They know how to cope and have bigger problems than some sand. We all do. I do, you do, and your neighbors do. It's up to each of us to try to overcome the obstacles and challenges and get involved in the things God leads us to that can impact and assist our own and other's lives.

One of the displaced pcamps we work in, quite crowded. What even a lot of normal homes look like for local residents

Home sweet home (roof terrace, balcony, nice place!!)

Favorite lunch activity - relax on the roof in the hammock (before the wind anyway)

Walls constructed of used milk powder tins, oats, tomato paste, and whatever else they can find

I think I'm gonna try this with my beard sometime soon. What d'ya think?

Another view of typical camp structures

A random shot of some people in town

Hup Holland Hup

The World Cup is winding down. The final starts in less than 4 hours. I’ve now got to figure out something else to give time and attention to and take interest in. There are not so many things that stand out as obvious choices in a place like Somaliland. However, a recent discovery has proved to add a little bit to the repetitive routine here. The shop nearby where we go and pick up sodas and such received a new delivery that consisted of many new items. Imagine my delight to walk in and find Nutella, Heinz ketchup, Kelloggs Coco Pops, Twix, Snickers, and Kit Kats. I thought it was Christmas until I remembered they don’t celebrate that here, and then I realized it is July. And even though it isn’t Christmas, I decided to celebrate anyway and bought one or more of almost all the new toys on the shelves.

Coming back to the important stuff, though, is the fact that tonight is the World Cup Championship Game. Spain and Holland will compete to win the most watched sporting event in the world. If the game is anything like last night’s Runner’s up match between Germany and Uruguay, it will live up to the hype. I didn’t really expect it after Germany took the 1-0 lead in the middle of the first half, but after Uruguay managed to tie it, they came out after the break and even took the lead 2-1. After tying the score at 2-all, a goal in the final ten minutes looked like it was going to be enough for Germany to eke out a win. But, just at the end of the game, a free kick by Uruguay almost gave them the storybook ending they were looking for to cap off their unexpected run to the semifinals. The crossbar had other ideas, and the shot deflected off it and away from any Uruguayans who would’ve liked to knock it back into the goal to send the game to Extra Time. Uruguay also played in the second most exciting match of the Cup that I saw when they defeated Ghana on penalties after a deliberate handball kept Ghana from an outright win at the end of Extra Time. The 4-1 German defeat of England that included a goal taken away by the referees and the U.S. win over Algeria to win their group were probably the next two most exciting games. I just hope the final isn’t a boring let-down after the excitement that has been building over the last month.

One other thing about this final that makes it interesting regardless of the outcome, is that I’ll be watching with a Dutch. The Deputy Country Director who’s here in the field now is from the Netherlands, so will be watching with great anticipation as his team vies against Spain to be World Cup Champions for the first time ever. Of course he’d rather be in Amsterdam watching amongst millions of other rowdy Dutchies. Or he’d prefer to be with those 15 or so women who were arrested for trying to take away from Budweiser’s thunder as ‘official beer of the World Cup’ by wearing some small oranje (that’s not normal orange, but Dutch oranje) dresses to the Netherlands first game against Denmark with some other beer company’s name on the label. But, alas, he’s left having to watch the biggest football match of the last 4 years, and biggest of his life with someone who calls the game soccer, and others from a country whose team has never even qualified for a World Cup (Kenya and Somaliland). Oh well, we’ll have a good time. And, if they win, we’ll celebrate with one of the other new goodies that arrived in the latest shipment at the nearby shop. Non-alcoholic grape drink that’s got a foil wrapping over the cap and is made to look like champagne. Yep, that and some non-alcoholic malt beverages are the closest thing we can get around here to what 95% of other Dutch are going to be drinking while watching the game and celebrating with after. It’s ok, though, because everyone knows Heineken is not good anyway.

1000 Words

Unfortunately, I'm notorious for being awful at taking photographs. I think that's mostly because every camera I've ever owned I have either broken/lost/had stolen. I may actually be an expert photographer with an innate gift for capturing life's precious moments, but just been missing out on the opportunity to do so.

Thankfully, however, I often have people surrounding me who take photos and generously share them with me. I'd have no pictures from University, my first trips to Africa, road trips, or pretty much any other experiences in my life were it not for great friends who so graciously provide me with snapshots. One such visitor to Burao in April/May is responsible for the pictures you're about to see. I won't add much to the photo other than just a caption, and will let you appreciate what photos can say on their own.

More pics to come soon!

Kids the world over love climbing trees

Much more beautiful scenery than I'd expected!

How I Roll...

Tour Guide: (Bring your own Translator)

Who'd have thought there was a tourism site in Somaliland?!?!

Some Old Rock Paintings, really cool!!

Happy Independence Day!!

Tons of food to give away

Election Day

Well, today is a big day. Today is the day that Somalilanders vote for president for the first time since 2003. This part of what the world knows as Somalia has its own currency, government, and has been much more stable than the rest of Somalia.

In the last election, the difference in votes between the winner and second place was less than 100. And yet the winner assumed power peacefully. This time, it very well could be close again, and hopefully the outcome will again be peaceful. The run up to the elections were incredibly peaceful with all 3 political parties holding rallies without fighting amongst one another and minimal conflict and accusations. With just over 1 million registered voters, it is not a vastly populated area, but with that number of people over 68,000 square miles (the size of England and Wales), many of which are nomadic or semi-nomadic, and infrastructure which has lots of room for improvement, it has been impressive to see the voter registration process and elections prepared.

Today Somaliland could set an example of democracy for the region and even the world. It will no doubt be an interesting day which could be a great step towards the continual development and growth of Somaliland. Read more in the links attached.
http://www.nytimes.com/2010/06/26/world/africa/26somaliland.html?src=me
http://www1.voanews.com/english/news/africa/east/Somaliland-Poised-for-Much-Delayed-Presidential-Election-Saturday-97163764.html

Should I Drink From It?

Ok, so I'm overdue for a post. And, I'm long overdue for a good post that is worth reading. So, this will at least fit the post category, and maybe at least one of the 3 people who still check my blog will enjoy it.

Since June 11, I've been watching a lot more television. We began a subscription to a South African satellite television provider called DSTV not exlusively because of, but in large part in expectation of getting to watch the World Cup. All 64 games will be broadcast on it. And, for once, I'm in a time zone that allows for premium live world cup watching. The only games I miss during work are the early game slot that ended Monday. 5pm and 9:30pm are the only times that games are on from here on out, and I look forward to watching more.

As the games began, we had 3 countries out of 4 represented (sorry Kenyans, your team just isn't so good at football). The US drew, Nigeria lost, and the Netherlands won. Today I was able to watch from a guest house in the capital of Somaliland as I'm here for just the night. The US very nearly disappointed, but managed to pull through with the victory. I was the only one shouting at the TV during US-Algeria as the German and Kenyan I was watching with both sat by much more passively. When the US finally scored in extra time, the other person in the house, a Swiss lady, came by wondering if the sounds coming out of the room were those of joy or those of pain, and thankfully Landon Donovan made it joyful.

I thought I might be fulfilling the loud American stereotype until the Germany game came on as the late game. A friend of the German joined us for this game, and the two of them were also yelling and screaming at the players and the ref inside the box we were watching. It's even better than the olympics, as the same sport is played for a month consecutively and each person is much more animated in support of his/her nation. All across the world, for this one month, there are curses and blessings shouted at televisions in dozens of languages over the same games. Watching in an international setting just makes it even that much more exciting and enjoyable.

So, on July 11, I know where I'll be and what I'll be doing. 4 years ago, the final match went to a shootout. About 10 minutes before overtime ended, the power went out where I was, and it didn't come back on again until after the shootout was done and Italy had won. This year, I've learned my lesson and will be bringing an APC battery backup home from the office so that even if the electric gets cut, the battery will keep the power on the television active for at least 15 or 20 extra minutes. But I hope it isn't needed. Hope you're also enjoying the games and fitting them into your schedules as well. After all, it does only happen once every four years.

E.S.L.

I am a native English speaker. Some places I've been, it has been difficult to know if the person was speaking English or some other local language. Other places, however, I know it's English, it's just a different version of English. And others just have a telltale accent for some words. For example, take Boston: They don't know how to pronounce 'r'. They've got Hah-vahd University and they eat clam chowdah. Or how many of you have ever ordered fried rice at a restaurant and when they bring it, they say 'flied lice' because the 'r' turns into an 'l' for some reason. Yeah, there's a population in Kenya who do the same, but they also pronounce the 'l' as an 'r', so when the Elections took place in Sudan, the people who work for the Carter Center were described as the ones who were responsible for the ... well, you can figure that out on your own.

Where I am now, 'b' and 'p' are commonly confused. Somalis are known for fighting, but I didn't know how much they prized it until recently. There's been enough fighting going on here for the last several decades to keep things from developing too much, but when I received the above recommendation as we were looking to hire for a new position, I was a little surprised. Seriously, maybe being aggressive is a positive trait here, but I really wouldn't think to find it in a reference letter. How many people do you know who want an employee who is 'combatant' (see the highlight in yellow above)? After I realized that the person meant 'competent' and not 'combatant', I had a little laugh about the difference in language, and added it to the list of interesting application letters we have received.

Anyway, thought I'd share a little bit of comedy that we experience here. It's one of the little things that help to bring a smile and remind me that there's so many things about life that I'd never get to experience were I not here.

End of the Road

Chicago traffic is terrible. Miserable. There is no way to avoid the gridlock. I assumed that heading into the city at around 6:15pm I’d meet backed up traffic coming towards me but I’d be ok enough going downtown away from the rush. Yeah, I was wrong. Lake Michigan makes a natural barrier forcing way too much traffic into Chicago. So I became that guy who weaves in and out of parked and slow moving traffic on his motorcycle. This is perfectly acceptable in most of the places in the world where I’d ridden before. In the US, however, motorists I passed were no doubt cursing me and secretly hoping that I’d get pulled over by a cop or maybe even that I’d get in an accident and become maimed in order to learn my lesson that the lines dividing the road into lanes are there for a reason. After an hour of stopping and going, bobbing and weaving I was slowly working my way through the traffic when the prayers of others were answered and the temperature light turned on as my motorcycle began to overheat when passing one of the toll booths. Argh! I pulled over to the side of the road in humiliation as cars slowly rolled past which I had just been recklessly (in their view, not my own) weaving through coming inches from their vehicles. Yes, several of them I could see laughing at me. Since I didn’t really know where I was going, I took this small chance to call Fletcher and find out if there was any advice he had on how to avoid the congestion and see just how much farther he thought I still had to go in this mess. Of course there are no roads without traffic in Chicago at this time of day, so after a couple minutes to stretch and let the engine cool down, I continued on my way.

I hate traffic!!!

It wasn’t too much longer till the traffic eased a little and I reached the exit. It was a great relief to be off the highway although trying to see the building numbers and road names while not hitting any pedestrians or cars on the narrow streets around UIC proved a different challenge. I only went past the building where Fletcher and Rachel live once before realizing it, and around 8pm I finally had a chance to allow my body to adjust to a more comfortable position than it had experienced most of the day.

It had been over a year since Fletcher and I had last met in Sudan and two years since our epic R&R on Zanzibar. We reconnected over a couple fine cigars on his back porch where they have a beautiful little garden to relax and soak in life. We really pondered existence that evening, and shared the joys and frustrations of the life we’d left in Sudan, Church, faith, and other deep things that make for good conversation while appreciating a nice cigar. While Fletcher had to be at work early the next morning, I had a chance to catch up with Rachel (they had just gotten married a few weeks before my visit). After a nice relaxing morning and a nice late breakfast, I headed east to the section of the journey which I’ve travelled far too many times already.

I started out in the late morning and avoided the worst of the traffic, though the construction just outside the city center was not so fun. My second home is in Northeast Indiana. Roughly 150 miles from Chicago, I always enjoy my visits to Bear Lake Camp and seeing all my friends/my second family there. It would have been easy to stay longer, but I did have an interview I was trying to get back east for, so I only stayed one night, attended Brad’s birthday party, and headed to Ft Wayne for the last night of the expedition. Chad, Ethan and Zeeb had plenty to say about my crazy trip and were pretty surprised I’d actually made it so far without having killed myself. Of course, if I had another month to start on another similar journey right then, I think in 5 minutes I’d have talked all three of them into getting motorcycles right then and there and joining me.

Bear Lake Camp in winter

The following morning I headed east where I intended to stop by and visit my Aunt and Uncle and a long time friend in Findlay Ohio. So, after 7000 miles of smooth sailing and no trouble with the police, I had my first encounter. It happened in Ottawa Ohio, with a population of maybe 5,000. I’m driving down the little 2 lane road towards the town with cornfields on both sides of me and a 55mph limit. I was maybe at 66 or 67 when the police car was coming towards me. Motorcycles don’t have cruise control, and I was a bit eager to reach the end as I expected to be home that night. It just had to be a woman cop. And by the looks of it, her husband was going through a mid-life crisis, had bought a motorcycle, and she wanted nothing to do with it or anyone else who might encourage him in the venture. I’ve gotten three speeding tickets in my life, 2 of them have been given by women police officers. Both of those were in Ohio. But, as far as problems that I could have encountered on the way, a speeding ticket is a minor one. And after a nice visit with Dave, Linda and Lance over lunch, I continued the remaining 350 miles from Findlay making only one stop and getting back at dusk 28 days after I’d left. I considered going the extra couple hundred miles to reach the Atlantic so that it could truly have been a coast to coast journey, but I was tired and satisfied enough with the road I’d travelled that I had no need to prove anything. And with that, the Blue Mamba Trail was complete. Good times, Good times indeed!

O Canada!

Hey ya hoser. In Tribute to Bob and Doug Mackenzie, and in honour (do they use the British spelling of honor with the u in there up in Canada?) of the Vancouver 2010 Olympics proving to be a huge success, I wanted to give some credit to the neighbor to the North of the US. And, with one of the best things to come from the country being a movie called 'Strange Brew', is it any wonder the women's hockey team celebrated the way they did? And is it really that big an issue that they did?

Like Dunkin Donuts only better

Congratulations to all you Canadians out there. You've got something to celebrate for quite a while. As the winter olympics finish at the end of February, you're able to hold the spotlight for awhile as there's not much else to do in February and early March but watch TV and read the news. And the World Cup isn't for another couple of months. So revel in the glory as long as you can, because we all know that while Canada may be good in the snow, they're not so well known for things which take place on grass.

Both very much Canadian




Near, Far, Wherever You Are!

Rain!!!

Today was the first time I saw rain here in Somaliland since early October. It was wonderful!! A whole 15 minutes of rain!! Sure, it didn’t last long, but it doesn’t take much to bring joy to everyone. And the way it looks, it might even just pick back up again and add a little more excitement to things around here. I was at the gate with our security guards when it started. It had been cloudy all day – this has only happened a few times in the past 5 months – and they’d become a darker shade all around. Consequently, all we were talking about was rain. (I had my English-Somali dictionary with me, otherwise we wouldn’t have even been talking but rather grunting, gesturing and trying to communicate using a conglomeration of my poor attempts at Juba Arabic, their poor attempts at English, and the 15 or 20 Somali words that I know).

Before the rain started, we could see several miles away that it was already raining. There was all kinds of dust in the horizon which they were saying (I only understood because of the sign language, though I’m sure they were saying it with their words also) is a sign of rain. Sure enough, about 20 minutes later, the wind picked up and sand was blowing everywhere. It wasn’t a sandstorm, and I don’t really know if they have those here or not, but the sand was blowing at least a hundred feet in the air in a not too thick cloud, and so came the rain. No one was concerned to retreat under cover at first. We were all relishing the liquid falling from the sky as it brought at least a temporary relief to the dry, parched earth. But, wetness does result in discomfort, and especially as the sun was low on the horizon, no one really wanted to get soaked. So, we did hide under a small shelter with big smiles and a light-hearted atmosphere that persisted.

Praise the Lord for the rain! I welcome it as a break from the monotony, a relief to the heat, and a hope that it will ease suffering of all around me who struggle to survive with its absence. It has been 5 months without rain in Somaliland, but I got completely drenched in a downpour in Nairobi only 3 weeks ago. For those I interact with daily, it has been a lifetime of going months without seeing a drop of rain. No escape to a foreign land where it is common. Nothing but brown, sandy earth with little thorny plants here and there that spring to life for a short time whenever the few drops of rain do come. I know that tomorrow I’ll begin to see a little bit of growth and maybe even a little bit of green will spring forth in the next day or two. The roots are shallow, and things will inevitably be scorched and die again. But, these are the things that are just beyond my and anyone else’s control. People grow up in different areas and have different experiences. It’s not for me to determine what takes root and what doesn’t. I can do no more than trust that the Author has a purpose for creating things the way they are. I rejoice in my experiences. I rejoice with my neighbours today for the little rain that fell. And I rejoice that life is not in the big things, but in the small things to be enjoyed moment by moment.

What's so Great about the Plains?

From Camp Bighorn, the next place I really had any intentions or desire to stop was Minneapolis. (While there were other places I had some desire to stop at, I didn’t think it was worth the several hundred extra miles and consequently hours on the bike that I would’ve had to drive to get to any of them). So, I left early in the morning on September 11 and headed East on US Highway 12 across Montana. And I continued driving across Montana. Eventually I stopped at Sulphur Springs Montana, right in the middle of the state for a bowl of clam chowder. And then I continued further along the highway. Western Montana: beautiful. Eastern Montana: not so much. At sometime past 6pm, after 600 miles travelled and almost 11 hours on the road, the sun was beginning to set and it started raining. I was still 40 miles from any type of civilization. I was cold and uncomfortable. I considered stopping and putting up the tent for the night, but as I was already miserable, I decided to push on ahead to the next town and stay in a motel for only the second and final night on the trip that I would pay for lodging. 650 miles and 11+ hours from when I’d started the day, I was still in Montana. How can the state really be that long?

Saw some of these, and not much else (not my photo though)

After a night’s sleep in a bed to rest my stiff, sore body, I woke up to find that the rain hadn’t stopped overnight, so I was thankful I’d stayed in the hotel. With nothing but the Great Plains of North and South Dakota between me and Minneapolis, I knew it was going to be another long day. I continued the journey with the trusty overalls and rain jacket that Alex had graciously let me borrow. The rain let up by midday so I was at least able to dry out for the afternoon while soaking up some sun. I covered a total of 600+ miles going across parts of the Dakotas and Western Minnesota, but finally reached Nick and Christy’s place with an extremely sore bum sometime after 8pm (lost an hour due to time zone change). The 1300 miles I’d covered the previous 2 days had worn me out and while I was glad to see Nick and Christy again, I was asleep by 10pm even though it was a Saturday night.

I took it easy for a couple days choosing to mostly walk rather than explore much of the Twin Cities on wheels. My hosts live in a diverse community where there are dozens of ethnicities heavily represented, including a large Somali population. It was wonderful to eat some great food, meet some new folks, visit my old roommate and his wife, some other friends I hadn’t seen in years, and some cousins that had grown up way too much since I’d last spent any time with them. But, the date of my interview, which was the only thing that put a limit to the time I had for this cross-country expedition, was approaching too quickly. So I couldn’t stay long enough to help Nick and Christy move into or fix up the house they’d just bought and settled on the day I left… and it did need quite a lot of work. (At least that’s the excuse I gave to get out of helping.) Even though it took a lot of effort and all their extra time for awhile, I’ve seen pictures that show just how much they were able to do to turn the place into a nice, comfortable home.

My tour of Minneapolis

As I left Minneapolis, I headed towards Chicago which I’ll pick up with in the next instalment. But a couple of hour visit in Rochester on the way allowed me to meet the newest addition to Sarah’s family as she, Kyle, and Josiah had recently welcomed beautiful baby Briella into the world. Josiah loved the motorcycle, so even though he’s only 3 years old, I let him take it for a spin while I played with his Fisher Price toys. Ok, so his mom decided that it wasn’t a good idea to let him drive as it didn’t have training wheels. But we did get to play ball in the yard and I pushed him around in his Fisher Price racer. And that is where this edition of the Blue Mamba Trail will end.